ABOUT YOUR NEW PUPPY
The following is some starter information about the things you will need to have on hand when your puppy comes home and some tips on training and caring for your new puppy! Grab a coffee and have a seat…this is a pretty lengthy document!
First things first
Among the first things to do when you get your new puppy are the following:
(1) Take him to your vet for a complete checkup to establish him/her as a patient for regular checkups, vaccinations and so that if the need arises and your puppy is ill or injured you already have a good relationship and medical records established with a vet that you can get to quickly. Follow up with the puppy's next vaccination (9 weeks) and thereafter as suggested by your vet. If this is your first pet, please take the time to locate your nearest animal emergency hospital and place that phone number along with your vet's phone number in your phone and post it on your refrigerator or note board for easy access in case of emergency. You don't want to have to try to fumble around to locate someone who can care for your pet when time is of the essence in getting vet care for a sick or injured dog.
(2) Have your vet microchip your puppy ASAP! We all have the best of intentions, but we never know when some strange circumstance will arise and your puppy may go missing or, heaven forbid, get stolen. Unfortunately, stealing and ransoming puppies and older dogs is a rising trend and is happening in areas near us ( I know of several cases where this has happened in New Orleans area recently). Go online and register your pet's microchip if the brand you receive requires registration. Some brands require you to pay a low annual fee for continual monitoring and I feel that this is a necessity! Make sure that your pet's microchip tag is always on his or her collar. I recommend that you spend the extra money to buy the metal tag with the microchip recovery service info on it rather than use the freebie plastic ones as those wear down, break and become illegible within a short amount of time. AKC also has a Companion Animal Recovery program with lots of tools that are very useful for identification and recovery of your dog in case of emergencies. Check that out at http://www.akcreunite.org// THIS IS A MUST HAVE!
(3) Register your puppy with the AKC. Please use the forms provided in your New Puppy folder to register your puppy as soon as possible. You can do this by completing the form and mailing it in or you can go online and using the numbers and info on the form, you can register your puppy online. Place your puppy's AKC tag on his collar for further help in identifying your dog.
(4) Buy a personalized, high quality identification tag and keep it on your dog anytime he or she is outside of your home. You never know when a dog might bolt (even those that are trained and well-behaved sometimes randomly see a need to dash off after some unknown enticement) and that tag will be your lifeline to recovering your dog. Petsmart and your local pet stores have very easy to use engraving stations where you can pick a tag and personalize it with your dog's name, your address and your phone number. This is a MUST HAVE!
(5) Buy a good quality collar and leash and start walking your puppy right away. Make sure you can fit about two fingers between the collar and the neck so that it is not too tight nor too loose. Check periodically to see if the collar becomes frayed or damaged and needs to be replaced. If you like to have multiple collars for holidays or special occasions, Look into the Rubit brand dog tag clips. You place the tags on the Rubit and then it easily and quickly attaches to the collar with just one click. Always make sure your dogs' tags are securely attached to their collar and that they are all legible.
Food
Good quality food is very important for your dog's health. Get advice from your vet on this subject, but please don't feed your lovely dog the cheapest stuff on the shelf at Wal-Mart as it is not healthy at all. The kind of food that I use is called Royal Canin Mini or small Starter (for moms and puppies) or Puppy.. You should feed a high quality puppy food to your puppy for it's first year. You can use the directions on the bag as to how much to feed each day. Cavaliers have a tendency to become overweight if you over-feed them, so you should be careful from the start to get the puppy used to eating the proper amount. You can talk to your vet as the puppy grows about how much your puppy should be eating for her size, weight, etc. (besides what it says on the bag). It is not a good idea to leave an unlimited amount of food out available all the time (like from an automatic feeder) as they tend to over eat and it makes potty training much, much harder. Here is a link to it at Petsmart so you can see what the bag looks like. http://www.petsmart.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=royal%20canin%20mini%20puppy&origkw=royal+canin+mini+puppy&sr=1&f=PAD/psNotAvailInUS/No Royal Canin is changing their packaging, so you might find different bags when you go shopping. The kinds shown below are what I use. Just make sure it says for small puppy (dogs under 22 pounds) or toy breeds puppy. We start with wet and gradually switch to the dry. You certainly don't have to use Royal Canin (it can get expensive), but talk to your vet and settle on something that is healthy for a Cavalier at the appropriate age. If you do plan on changing brands, I would recommend you buy a small bag of Royal Canin puppy and mix the two to gradually make the change. A sudden change in food can upset any dog’s digestive system.
Be sure to choose two dishes for food and water that will not be too high off the ground at first. The puppies are being fed out of a regular flat dinner plate right now or a bowl of 2 or 3 inches in depth just for easy access for multiple puppies. The kind of dishes in the stands or the kind with the non-skid bottoms and the tapered spill-free variety are really good. You may have to help the puppy figure out that they have to look a little higher up to get into the bowl for the food, but it's usually not a problem at all. Mine drink water out of the little things that hold a good deal of water (the smaller side, not the huge ones) that only have to be refilled every few days but that's more for my convenience rather than theirs. They need to have fresh, CLEAN water available at all times but take it up about an hour or so before you want them to go to bed while you are potty training so they can have their last potty before bedtime. Also, if you are going to feed in the afternoon or evening, make sure you feed them early enough that they can have time for a BM before bed. I usually don't feed mine past 6-7 pm, but usually I feed them whenever we eat supper so that they are not begging at our table. NEVER FEED DOGS HUMAN FOOD! If you give them a snack from the dinner table, they will hang around the table and beg forever. Human food is just not healthy for your dog! Exceptions to this rule are giving canned green beans, carrot sticks and ice cubes as treats. Be consistent in all of your training from the very beginning.
Treats
As far as treats, you can start out with the little regular "puppy biscuits" but be careful not to give them too many as we want them to eat their healthy food and not get full on treats. Treats, especially too many treats, can be fattening, too. You will also need to have something available for them to chew on at all times to keep them busy, entertained and to prevent them from chewing on your shoes or furniture. Right now the puppies are enjoying the smallest rawhide twists like these http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751613&lmdn=SHOP+FOR any brand is fine. You can find these at Wal Mart, Target, etc. I've found that mine love the Dingo brand chews with the meaty bits in them. There are lots of kinds, so you'll start with small ones and work up to bigger ones as the puppy grows. Our dogs enjoy the Dentley’s (or store brand) flip chews and the puppies have had a couple in the pen and have been chewing at them even if mine are a little large. These are all chews that will last a while and keep them from getting bored and getting into trouble. ONE THING THAT I WOULD ADVISE AGAINST IS GIVING THEM ANY OF THE PIG OR PORK PRODUCTS SUCH AS "PIG EARS" as they have caused stomach upset problems with some of our dogs. In general, they are just nothing but fat, so they are really not healthy treats at all. Start early to give them healthy treats such as carrot sticks, green beans, peeled and cored apple slices and ice cubes. Be sure to make your dogs "sit" and "wait" while you give each one a treat while the others "wait" their turn. Praise, praise, praise when they get it right!
Grooming
Lots of breeders and owners will tell you to get all kinds of fancy, expensive shampoos, etc. for Cavaliers, but I have found that a gentle tear-free shampoo (such as a moisturizing baby shampoo for humans) is fine for them. I always put conditioner on them after the shampoo. I like the "Mane 'n Tail" brand made by Straight Arrow that was originally started for horses but evolved into "people" conditioner. You will find it in the human shampoo area of Wal-Mart. Be generous on the conditioner as it helps so much in the drying and brushing and prevents tangles. Be sure, of course, to rinse them well after the bath and conditioner. If they seem to have any skin reaction at all or they seem to be scratching for no obvious reason, then you will want to try a shampoo with oatmeal and/or see your vet to make sure there is not something else going on with the skin like allergies.
Obviously, Cavaliers need good and frequent brushing to keep their ears from getting matted. I prefer the pin-type brushes like this one http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3738206&lmdn=SHOP+FOR I also use a regular dog comb to detangle any matts (no matter how often you brush them, they will get matts in those ears!) that you find. Once they grow bigger and begin to shed I highly recommend that you get a "furminator" type brush like this http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751965&lmdn=SHOP+FOR I'll warn you that they are expensive, but they really do work and they make the dogs more comfortable and cut down on the amount of hair you will find around your home. Alternatively, most groomers now offer a "furminating" or anti-shedding service for a fee. I groom my Cavaliers by myself most of the time and do not find it over taxing as they do not need frequent baths unless they get especially dirty or begin to smell a little funky (as in "wet dog" smell after a rain). If you bathe regularly from the time they are little, they will love baths and blow-drying. Of course, they also enjoy getting a "spa day" at our local doggy boutique once in a while. They get pampered and come home smelling clean, looking good and with a stylish scarf or hair bows!
Oral hygiene
Do look at the products available for cleaning their teeth and choose something that you think you will be most comfortable with. There again, they make everything from toothbrushes to things you put on your finger (I prefer the finger kind). Use toothpaste or gel made specifically for dogs. Do NOT use toothpaste intended for humans! It can be toxic to your dog. I will admit that I was lax on cleaning my first dog's (a teacup toy poodle) teeth way back 30 years ago and she developed gum disease that was not pleasant for her (tooth decay and had to have several teeth pulled) or us (VERY bad breath). Infections in the mouth can spread to other parts of their bodies and cause some very serious health problems. So, just like with our human teeth, regular cleaning is the best thing for preventative care as well as for better smelling breath.
Parasite control and preventative care
Another essential if fleas are a problem is Adam's brand Flea Off shampoo and/or sprays. Nothing but Adams really works so well and you must follow the directions on the bottle and let the lather sit on them for up to 5 minutes before rinsing and if you still see live fleas, repeat the lather process again. If you have fleas in your area, you are going to have to treat your yard or nothing that you put on the dog will solve the problem. Also, I recommend Frontline Plus for flea control preventative, which is a topical solution or a pill formula or an oral parasite preventative that you can obtain from your vet. We are currently using Trifexis which is an “all-in-one” flea, heartworm and parasite preventative). Again, discuss with your vet at your first puppy visit as they usually know what’s good for your specific area. If fleas become a problem, you MUST treat your yard regularly (you can get products at Home Depot, etc. that specifically say for fleas as well as other insects).
Your vet will advise you and so will I to make sure your dog is always on a heart worm and other parasite preventative such as Heart Guard, Interceptor or Trifexis, the “all-in-one” treatment I mentioned above. You can purchase these from your vet or you can get prescriptions from your vet and order them at online pet-med type places or specialty stores like Drs. Foster and Smith. I do not recommend the over the counter kind from the pet stores. You just don’t want to take a chance with parasites.
Crate training
There are lots of differing opinions and personal preferences when it comes to crate training. We crate train our dogs and I think it really provides them with a “safe” place that they feel is their own. We’ve gotten to the point where we usually just leave the crate doors open for our adult dogs and they go in there when they want to nap or when the weather is bad, etc. For one puppy/to adult sized Cavalier we have one wire crate that is 16 in. x 23 in. x 19 inches. Our adult dogs like to sleep together so we also have a medium sized crate this is 21 in. x 35 in. x 25 inches that accommodates the two of them at one time. Crate training helps with potty training as they won’t want to soil the place where they sleep and eat. Feed them in the crate at first so they will equate the crate with good things. Praise them when they go in the crate and start on day 1 to give commands that you will want to use in the future. For example, if you would like to be able to tell your dog to "go to bed" when it's bedtime or when company comes over, etc. Repeat that phrase "go to bed" every time you place the puppy in the crate and soon he will get the idea. Give them a treat while in the crate and from time to time toss a treat in the crate when they are not in the crate and when they discover it on their own, they will become to love their crate. Their special blankets and toys are very comforting in the crate.
Bedding
One more thing you will want to have on hand when your puppy comes home is a comfy bed. Again, there are millions of varieties. I have found that the more pillow-like beds that can go in the washer and dryer are best for us. My dogs like them, especially those that have a fleece or soft covering. You should go ahead and start with a bed that is for small to medium sized dogs (not tiny or mini's such as Chihuahuas, etc.---too small) as the puppy will grow very fast. You can always put a soft towel or blanket in the bed for the puppy to snuggle with if the bed is a bit big for the puppy at first. Ours love the cheapy dollar store little fleece-type blankets. We put the more flat “crate cushion” type of pads inside the crates and then we have several of the other kinds of beds all over the house so that wherever we are they have a comfy place of their own. A hint: occasionally I have had a genius puppy that has figured out how to unzip the covers on the kind of beds that have the zip covers so you can take the cover off and wash it separately. To solve that problem, put a safety pin thru the two zippers or safety pin the one zipper to the fabric and junior won’t so easily be able to pull all the fluff out of the bed. (picture a room full of poly-fill. Messy and dangerous if they ingest any of the stuffing).
My training methods: Crate training and behavior
By the time your puppy goes home with you, I will have already begun to teach them not to bite or mouth your fingers, toes, shoes, etc. When they bite or chew, I tap them on the nose gently with my hand and say “no” and immediately give them a chewy stick or bone or toy that they are allowed to chew. They learn quickly that the good things to chew are better than humans anyway. While you are training your puppy (potty training and command training, especially for chewing) it is better to restrict your puppy's movement to a small area at first. A restricted area (with an easy to clean floor as opposed to a carpeted area) can be a small area in a room blocked off with a puppy exercise pen, a small laundry room or their crate. I prefer the crate at first. Puppy proof that area (no wooden furniture, shoes, etc. that they would be tempted to chew). Work with your training for a few minutes several times a day. They won’t have long attention spans, so little spurts of time broken up into 10 minutes or so are best. When you are able to supervise them, let them out of their restricted area, immediately take them out to potty and then encourage them to stay near you so you can monitor their activities and be quick to correct any bad behavior (chewing, pottying inside, etc.) Some people recommend putting the puppy on a leash and attach the leash to your belt or arm and have the puppy walk with you as you move around the house. This helps with leash training as well. Tell your puppy to "sit" and reward with "Good sit!" and a quick pet when you catch them sitting. Use the same methods for all your commands. Walk, stop, wait, lie down, off or down (as in no jumping on people or get off the furniture), go to bed, come, leave it, go potty, shake, etc. are some pretty basic commands that are the minimum that you should teach your dog. Dogs enjoy this interaction with you and teaching them tricks can be fun, too! There are tons of books and websites to teach you step-by-step how to teach your puppy tricks. It's much easier for them to learn when they are young so they won't be confused as to what to do with themselves and what you are trying to tell them to do. Speak to your puppy in a kind manner and reward them with praise and petting when they are walking nicely or sitting nicely at your side. Cavaliers respond really well to positive reinforcement training (with or without treats) because they want nothing more than to please their humans. Give negative behavior as little attention as possible. You can correct with a sharp "No!" but don't harp on bad behavior for very long. Be consistent with all training. Have the whole family participate in training sessions so they will learn to obey all of your family members, not just one person, and have all of the family members use the same words and hand signals for training so that your dog is not confused as to what you want them to do.
I recommend that you buy one or two books on Cavaliers specifically and on something that generally includes info on crate training (if you choose to do so), on potty training, basic obedience, etc. We suggest only positive reinforcement training. NEVER PUNISH YOUR DOG! They do not understand punishment connected to a behavior and they will come to fear you and that is horribly cruel and serves no productive purpose. Cavaliers are sensitive animals and they will take a raised voice very personally and then they will avoid you and not follow your commands out of fear. I basically use Cesar Milan’s techniques (watch The Dog Whisperer, It’s Me or the Dog on YouTube or Netflix and pick up a book or two on dog training basics) as well as general dog training methods that you can learn in a basic obedience class offered by your local kennel club or at many pet stores. Pet Smart has classes and they like to teach clicker training, but I really don’t like to use clickers. Too much trouble. Cavaliers want so badly to please their owners that you really don’t need clickers. Start with small treats and before long they will not even require treats to follow your commands. Start on training as soon as you get your puppy home. Commands like come, sit, stay, leave it, down (or "off" for jumpers or for furniture), etc. are essential and the earlier you start the more success you will have. Good behavior improves the relationship between you and your dog, provides and element of safety for your dog in the event you take him out in public or to the dog park or he gets by a busy street…stop, sit and stay are crucial! If dogs are misbehaving, it is because they don’t have something else to do. For example, if you tell them to sit and stay, then they are doing their job. Just remember to release them with whatever word you choose (I use “okay” as our release word).
Potty training
The most important thing to remember with beginning potty training is to always take the puppy out as soon as they wake up from a nap and within 10-15 minutes after they eat as well as after a play session and just frequently as you can while they are little. When you take them to their potty place say, “go potty” (or whatever words you want to use) and as soon as they begin to potty say, “Good potty! Yay puppy! Potty, potty, potty”, and they will then learn to potty on command (helpful when you stop for potty breaks while traveling, or before you want to take them in the car or when it’s cold or rainy outside and you don’t want them to linger around for a long time, etc.) If you want to train them to use one particular area in your yard, always take them to that same place (use the leash at first) and use the potty commands and praise and eventually, they will usually go in that same place, which makes for easier cleanup. Many people are using the "bell method" of having their dog let them know when they need to go out. There are bells available that hang from doorknobs and you teach the puppy to ring the bells to let you know when they want to go outside.
General information
In addition to the books, magazines and DVDs that you can find in your local pet store and public libraries, I recommend the following websites for more tips and information to help you and your puppy have a long, happy life together:
www.akc.org (check out the About the Breed page on Cavaliers)
www.humanesociety.org
www.aspca.org
www.pets.webmd.com
www.cesarsway.com
Please consider joining and supporting your local kennel club, the AKC and the AKC breed specific club for Cavaliers, The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club (http://www.ckcsc.org) as well as your local humane societies and shelters.
If you have any other questions or have any problems as your puppy grows, please don't hesitate to contact me at any time. Check back here periodically as I like to revise this document every now and then. If you run into problems or issues about training or anything else I am more than happy to help along the way, no matter how old your doggie gets! I hope you will touch base every once in a while and send me pictures and updates of your puppy as he or she grows older. They may belong to you, but they are all still always my babies!
With best regards,
Sarah Murphy
copyright Bay Haven Cavaliers/Sarah Murphy 2014
The following is some starter information about the things you will need to have on hand when your puppy comes home and some tips on training and caring for your new puppy! Grab a coffee and have a seat…this is a pretty lengthy document!
First things first
Among the first things to do when you get your new puppy are the following:
(1) Take him to your vet for a complete checkup to establish him/her as a patient for regular checkups, vaccinations and so that if the need arises and your puppy is ill or injured you already have a good relationship and medical records established with a vet that you can get to quickly. Follow up with the puppy's next vaccination (9 weeks) and thereafter as suggested by your vet. If this is your first pet, please take the time to locate your nearest animal emergency hospital and place that phone number along with your vet's phone number in your phone and post it on your refrigerator or note board for easy access in case of emergency. You don't want to have to try to fumble around to locate someone who can care for your pet when time is of the essence in getting vet care for a sick or injured dog.
(2) Have your vet microchip your puppy ASAP! We all have the best of intentions, but we never know when some strange circumstance will arise and your puppy may go missing or, heaven forbid, get stolen. Unfortunately, stealing and ransoming puppies and older dogs is a rising trend and is happening in areas near us ( I know of several cases where this has happened in New Orleans area recently). Go online and register your pet's microchip if the brand you receive requires registration. Some brands require you to pay a low annual fee for continual monitoring and I feel that this is a necessity! Make sure that your pet's microchip tag is always on his or her collar. I recommend that you spend the extra money to buy the metal tag with the microchip recovery service info on it rather than use the freebie plastic ones as those wear down, break and become illegible within a short amount of time. AKC also has a Companion Animal Recovery program with lots of tools that are very useful for identification and recovery of your dog in case of emergencies. Check that out at http://www.akcreunite.org// THIS IS A MUST HAVE!
(3) Register your puppy with the AKC. Please use the forms provided in your New Puppy folder to register your puppy as soon as possible. You can do this by completing the form and mailing it in or you can go online and using the numbers and info on the form, you can register your puppy online. Place your puppy's AKC tag on his collar for further help in identifying your dog.
(4) Buy a personalized, high quality identification tag and keep it on your dog anytime he or she is outside of your home. You never know when a dog might bolt (even those that are trained and well-behaved sometimes randomly see a need to dash off after some unknown enticement) and that tag will be your lifeline to recovering your dog. Petsmart and your local pet stores have very easy to use engraving stations where you can pick a tag and personalize it with your dog's name, your address and your phone number. This is a MUST HAVE!
(5) Buy a good quality collar and leash and start walking your puppy right away. Make sure you can fit about two fingers between the collar and the neck so that it is not too tight nor too loose. Check periodically to see if the collar becomes frayed or damaged and needs to be replaced. If you like to have multiple collars for holidays or special occasions, Look into the Rubit brand dog tag clips. You place the tags on the Rubit and then it easily and quickly attaches to the collar with just one click. Always make sure your dogs' tags are securely attached to their collar and that they are all legible.
Food
Good quality food is very important for your dog's health. Get advice from your vet on this subject, but please don't feed your lovely dog the cheapest stuff on the shelf at Wal-Mart as it is not healthy at all. The kind of food that I use is called Royal Canin Mini or small Starter (for moms and puppies) or Puppy.. You should feed a high quality puppy food to your puppy for it's first year. You can use the directions on the bag as to how much to feed each day. Cavaliers have a tendency to become overweight if you over-feed them, so you should be careful from the start to get the puppy used to eating the proper amount. You can talk to your vet as the puppy grows about how much your puppy should be eating for her size, weight, etc. (besides what it says on the bag). It is not a good idea to leave an unlimited amount of food out available all the time (like from an automatic feeder) as they tend to over eat and it makes potty training much, much harder. Here is a link to it at Petsmart so you can see what the bag looks like. http://www.petsmart.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=royal%20canin%20mini%20puppy&origkw=royal+canin+mini+puppy&sr=1&f=PAD/psNotAvailInUS/No Royal Canin is changing their packaging, so you might find different bags when you go shopping. The kinds shown below are what I use. Just make sure it says for small puppy (dogs under 22 pounds) or toy breeds puppy. We start with wet and gradually switch to the dry. You certainly don't have to use Royal Canin (it can get expensive), but talk to your vet and settle on something that is healthy for a Cavalier at the appropriate age. If you do plan on changing brands, I would recommend you buy a small bag of Royal Canin puppy and mix the two to gradually make the change. A sudden change in food can upset any dog’s digestive system.
Be sure to choose two dishes for food and water that will not be too high off the ground at first. The puppies are being fed out of a regular flat dinner plate right now or a bowl of 2 or 3 inches in depth just for easy access for multiple puppies. The kind of dishes in the stands or the kind with the non-skid bottoms and the tapered spill-free variety are really good. You may have to help the puppy figure out that they have to look a little higher up to get into the bowl for the food, but it's usually not a problem at all. Mine drink water out of the little things that hold a good deal of water (the smaller side, not the huge ones) that only have to be refilled every few days but that's more for my convenience rather than theirs. They need to have fresh, CLEAN water available at all times but take it up about an hour or so before you want them to go to bed while you are potty training so they can have their last potty before bedtime. Also, if you are going to feed in the afternoon or evening, make sure you feed them early enough that they can have time for a BM before bed. I usually don't feed mine past 6-7 pm, but usually I feed them whenever we eat supper so that they are not begging at our table. NEVER FEED DOGS HUMAN FOOD! If you give them a snack from the dinner table, they will hang around the table and beg forever. Human food is just not healthy for your dog! Exceptions to this rule are giving canned green beans, carrot sticks and ice cubes as treats. Be consistent in all of your training from the very beginning.
Treats
As far as treats, you can start out with the little regular "puppy biscuits" but be careful not to give them too many as we want them to eat their healthy food and not get full on treats. Treats, especially too many treats, can be fattening, too. You will also need to have something available for them to chew on at all times to keep them busy, entertained and to prevent them from chewing on your shoes or furniture. Right now the puppies are enjoying the smallest rawhide twists like these http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751613&lmdn=SHOP+FOR any brand is fine. You can find these at Wal Mart, Target, etc. I've found that mine love the Dingo brand chews with the meaty bits in them. There are lots of kinds, so you'll start with small ones and work up to bigger ones as the puppy grows. Our dogs enjoy the Dentley’s (or store brand) flip chews and the puppies have had a couple in the pen and have been chewing at them even if mine are a little large. These are all chews that will last a while and keep them from getting bored and getting into trouble. ONE THING THAT I WOULD ADVISE AGAINST IS GIVING THEM ANY OF THE PIG OR PORK PRODUCTS SUCH AS "PIG EARS" as they have caused stomach upset problems with some of our dogs. In general, they are just nothing but fat, so they are really not healthy treats at all. Start early to give them healthy treats such as carrot sticks, green beans, peeled and cored apple slices and ice cubes. Be sure to make your dogs "sit" and "wait" while you give each one a treat while the others "wait" their turn. Praise, praise, praise when they get it right!
Grooming
Lots of breeders and owners will tell you to get all kinds of fancy, expensive shampoos, etc. for Cavaliers, but I have found that a gentle tear-free shampoo (such as a moisturizing baby shampoo for humans) is fine for them. I always put conditioner on them after the shampoo. I like the "Mane 'n Tail" brand made by Straight Arrow that was originally started for horses but evolved into "people" conditioner. You will find it in the human shampoo area of Wal-Mart. Be generous on the conditioner as it helps so much in the drying and brushing and prevents tangles. Be sure, of course, to rinse them well after the bath and conditioner. If they seem to have any skin reaction at all or they seem to be scratching for no obvious reason, then you will want to try a shampoo with oatmeal and/or see your vet to make sure there is not something else going on with the skin like allergies.
Obviously, Cavaliers need good and frequent brushing to keep their ears from getting matted. I prefer the pin-type brushes like this one http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3738206&lmdn=SHOP+FOR I also use a regular dog comb to detangle any matts (no matter how often you brush them, they will get matts in those ears!) that you find. Once they grow bigger and begin to shed I highly recommend that you get a "furminator" type brush like this http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751965&lmdn=SHOP+FOR I'll warn you that they are expensive, but they really do work and they make the dogs more comfortable and cut down on the amount of hair you will find around your home. Alternatively, most groomers now offer a "furminating" or anti-shedding service for a fee. I groom my Cavaliers by myself most of the time and do not find it over taxing as they do not need frequent baths unless they get especially dirty or begin to smell a little funky (as in "wet dog" smell after a rain). If you bathe regularly from the time they are little, they will love baths and blow-drying. Of course, they also enjoy getting a "spa day" at our local doggy boutique once in a while. They get pampered and come home smelling clean, looking good and with a stylish scarf or hair bows!
Oral hygiene
Do look at the products available for cleaning their teeth and choose something that you think you will be most comfortable with. There again, they make everything from toothbrushes to things you put on your finger (I prefer the finger kind). Use toothpaste or gel made specifically for dogs. Do NOT use toothpaste intended for humans! It can be toxic to your dog. I will admit that I was lax on cleaning my first dog's (a teacup toy poodle) teeth way back 30 years ago and she developed gum disease that was not pleasant for her (tooth decay and had to have several teeth pulled) or us (VERY bad breath). Infections in the mouth can spread to other parts of their bodies and cause some very serious health problems. So, just like with our human teeth, regular cleaning is the best thing for preventative care as well as for better smelling breath.
Parasite control and preventative care
Another essential if fleas are a problem is Adam's brand Flea Off shampoo and/or sprays. Nothing but Adams really works so well and you must follow the directions on the bottle and let the lather sit on them for up to 5 minutes before rinsing and if you still see live fleas, repeat the lather process again. If you have fleas in your area, you are going to have to treat your yard or nothing that you put on the dog will solve the problem. Also, I recommend Frontline Plus for flea control preventative, which is a topical solution or a pill formula or an oral parasite preventative that you can obtain from your vet. We are currently using Trifexis which is an “all-in-one” flea, heartworm and parasite preventative). Again, discuss with your vet at your first puppy visit as they usually know what’s good for your specific area. If fleas become a problem, you MUST treat your yard regularly (you can get products at Home Depot, etc. that specifically say for fleas as well as other insects).
Your vet will advise you and so will I to make sure your dog is always on a heart worm and other parasite preventative such as Heart Guard, Interceptor or Trifexis, the “all-in-one” treatment I mentioned above. You can purchase these from your vet or you can get prescriptions from your vet and order them at online pet-med type places or specialty stores like Drs. Foster and Smith. I do not recommend the over the counter kind from the pet stores. You just don’t want to take a chance with parasites.
Crate training
There are lots of differing opinions and personal preferences when it comes to crate training. We crate train our dogs and I think it really provides them with a “safe” place that they feel is their own. We’ve gotten to the point where we usually just leave the crate doors open for our adult dogs and they go in there when they want to nap or when the weather is bad, etc. For one puppy/to adult sized Cavalier we have one wire crate that is 16 in. x 23 in. x 19 inches. Our adult dogs like to sleep together so we also have a medium sized crate this is 21 in. x 35 in. x 25 inches that accommodates the two of them at one time. Crate training helps with potty training as they won’t want to soil the place where they sleep and eat. Feed them in the crate at first so they will equate the crate with good things. Praise them when they go in the crate and start on day 1 to give commands that you will want to use in the future. For example, if you would like to be able to tell your dog to "go to bed" when it's bedtime or when company comes over, etc. Repeat that phrase "go to bed" every time you place the puppy in the crate and soon he will get the idea. Give them a treat while in the crate and from time to time toss a treat in the crate when they are not in the crate and when they discover it on their own, they will become to love their crate. Their special blankets and toys are very comforting in the crate.
Bedding
One more thing you will want to have on hand when your puppy comes home is a comfy bed. Again, there are millions of varieties. I have found that the more pillow-like beds that can go in the washer and dryer are best for us. My dogs like them, especially those that have a fleece or soft covering. You should go ahead and start with a bed that is for small to medium sized dogs (not tiny or mini's such as Chihuahuas, etc.---too small) as the puppy will grow very fast. You can always put a soft towel or blanket in the bed for the puppy to snuggle with if the bed is a bit big for the puppy at first. Ours love the cheapy dollar store little fleece-type blankets. We put the more flat “crate cushion” type of pads inside the crates and then we have several of the other kinds of beds all over the house so that wherever we are they have a comfy place of their own. A hint: occasionally I have had a genius puppy that has figured out how to unzip the covers on the kind of beds that have the zip covers so you can take the cover off and wash it separately. To solve that problem, put a safety pin thru the two zippers or safety pin the one zipper to the fabric and junior won’t so easily be able to pull all the fluff out of the bed. (picture a room full of poly-fill. Messy and dangerous if they ingest any of the stuffing).
My training methods: Crate training and behavior
By the time your puppy goes home with you, I will have already begun to teach them not to bite or mouth your fingers, toes, shoes, etc. When they bite or chew, I tap them on the nose gently with my hand and say “no” and immediately give them a chewy stick or bone or toy that they are allowed to chew. They learn quickly that the good things to chew are better than humans anyway. While you are training your puppy (potty training and command training, especially for chewing) it is better to restrict your puppy's movement to a small area at first. A restricted area (with an easy to clean floor as opposed to a carpeted area) can be a small area in a room blocked off with a puppy exercise pen, a small laundry room or their crate. I prefer the crate at first. Puppy proof that area (no wooden furniture, shoes, etc. that they would be tempted to chew). Work with your training for a few minutes several times a day. They won’t have long attention spans, so little spurts of time broken up into 10 minutes or so are best. When you are able to supervise them, let them out of their restricted area, immediately take them out to potty and then encourage them to stay near you so you can monitor their activities and be quick to correct any bad behavior (chewing, pottying inside, etc.) Some people recommend putting the puppy on a leash and attach the leash to your belt or arm and have the puppy walk with you as you move around the house. This helps with leash training as well. Tell your puppy to "sit" and reward with "Good sit!" and a quick pet when you catch them sitting. Use the same methods for all your commands. Walk, stop, wait, lie down, off or down (as in no jumping on people or get off the furniture), go to bed, come, leave it, go potty, shake, etc. are some pretty basic commands that are the minimum that you should teach your dog. Dogs enjoy this interaction with you and teaching them tricks can be fun, too! There are tons of books and websites to teach you step-by-step how to teach your puppy tricks. It's much easier for them to learn when they are young so they won't be confused as to what to do with themselves and what you are trying to tell them to do. Speak to your puppy in a kind manner and reward them with praise and petting when they are walking nicely or sitting nicely at your side. Cavaliers respond really well to positive reinforcement training (with or without treats) because they want nothing more than to please their humans. Give negative behavior as little attention as possible. You can correct with a sharp "No!" but don't harp on bad behavior for very long. Be consistent with all training. Have the whole family participate in training sessions so they will learn to obey all of your family members, not just one person, and have all of the family members use the same words and hand signals for training so that your dog is not confused as to what you want them to do.
I recommend that you buy one or two books on Cavaliers specifically and on something that generally includes info on crate training (if you choose to do so), on potty training, basic obedience, etc. We suggest only positive reinforcement training. NEVER PUNISH YOUR DOG! They do not understand punishment connected to a behavior and they will come to fear you and that is horribly cruel and serves no productive purpose. Cavaliers are sensitive animals and they will take a raised voice very personally and then they will avoid you and not follow your commands out of fear. I basically use Cesar Milan’s techniques (watch The Dog Whisperer, It’s Me or the Dog on YouTube or Netflix and pick up a book or two on dog training basics) as well as general dog training methods that you can learn in a basic obedience class offered by your local kennel club or at many pet stores. Pet Smart has classes and they like to teach clicker training, but I really don’t like to use clickers. Too much trouble. Cavaliers want so badly to please their owners that you really don’t need clickers. Start with small treats and before long they will not even require treats to follow your commands. Start on training as soon as you get your puppy home. Commands like come, sit, stay, leave it, down (or "off" for jumpers or for furniture), etc. are essential and the earlier you start the more success you will have. Good behavior improves the relationship between you and your dog, provides and element of safety for your dog in the event you take him out in public or to the dog park or he gets by a busy street…stop, sit and stay are crucial! If dogs are misbehaving, it is because they don’t have something else to do. For example, if you tell them to sit and stay, then they are doing their job. Just remember to release them with whatever word you choose (I use “okay” as our release word).
Potty training
The most important thing to remember with beginning potty training is to always take the puppy out as soon as they wake up from a nap and within 10-15 minutes after they eat as well as after a play session and just frequently as you can while they are little. When you take them to their potty place say, “go potty” (or whatever words you want to use) and as soon as they begin to potty say, “Good potty! Yay puppy! Potty, potty, potty”, and they will then learn to potty on command (helpful when you stop for potty breaks while traveling, or before you want to take them in the car or when it’s cold or rainy outside and you don’t want them to linger around for a long time, etc.) If you want to train them to use one particular area in your yard, always take them to that same place (use the leash at first) and use the potty commands and praise and eventually, they will usually go in that same place, which makes for easier cleanup. Many people are using the "bell method" of having their dog let them know when they need to go out. There are bells available that hang from doorknobs and you teach the puppy to ring the bells to let you know when they want to go outside.
General information
In addition to the books, magazines and DVDs that you can find in your local pet store and public libraries, I recommend the following websites for more tips and information to help you and your puppy have a long, happy life together:
www.akc.org (check out the About the Breed page on Cavaliers)
www.humanesociety.org
www.aspca.org
www.pets.webmd.com
www.cesarsway.com
Please consider joining and supporting your local kennel club, the AKC and the AKC breed specific club for Cavaliers, The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club (http://www.ckcsc.org) as well as your local humane societies and shelters.
If you have any other questions or have any problems as your puppy grows, please don't hesitate to contact me at any time. Check back here periodically as I like to revise this document every now and then. If you run into problems or issues about training or anything else I am more than happy to help along the way, no matter how old your doggie gets! I hope you will touch base every once in a while and send me pictures and updates of your puppy as he or she grows older. They may belong to you, but they are all still always my babies!
With best regards,
Sarah Murphy
copyright Bay Haven Cavaliers/Sarah Murphy 2014
